If I push down on the the cover or apply weight to the top, the vibration reduces significantly. Examine your pumps impeller for any obstructions, and replace the capacitor if necessary. If power is reaching the motor, but nothing (no noise), look for any disconnected or severed wires in the back (shut off power first), if nothing, the motor may be dead. Hi, if the spark/flame was where the plug meets the cord, it could be a plug problem or an outlet problem. Get Mountainside Fitness reviews, ratings, business hours, phone numbers, and directions. Some advice? hayward salt cell plumbing diagram blue essence 20 manual hayward aquarite troubleshooting guidehayward salt system troubleshooting aqua rite diagnostic codes Blue essence salt chlorine generator owner's manual Salt Chlorinator Cell Replacement, Salt Water System Parts, Pool Light, Pool Alarm, Pool. Water level is good, changed basket lid seal, all unions are tight. dual-speed pool pump. I have a 2 HP Hayward two speed pump that is on its second season. Pump motors are continuous duty, meaning that they are meant for continuous operation, it wont harm the motor, or cause it to overheat. Thanks. Thoughts? I have a Hayward Power-Flo LX pump that went out and I bought the identical one thinking it would be an easy replacement. Great site. You may be removing the wrong bolts, if you are trying to loosen the 4 bolts that attach the motor to the seal plate. Hi Hi Cortney, you can buy the cord separately, Hayward pump cord the cause is likely from something arcing within the plug outlet. The usual spot is the pipe that threads into the pump did you use Teflon tape and/or silicone sealant on the threads? Breville Tamper Coffee Kit 54mm, For Use With: Hayward AquaTrol Pool Chlorine Generator Brand: HAYWARD REVIEWS Q&A Powered by TurnTo Review More Purchases | My Posts There are no reviews for this item. Check electrical connections and wiring for loose or broken. Did you figure this out. 5. If the pump runs without water for very long it will burn up the shaft seal, and if run for hours and days, can literally melt the pump, sometimes even catch fire (rarely), even with a small amount of water in it. It overheated very badly, even burning the hayward sticker off the pump itself maybe a month ago. Hi Tom, if it is the same exact pump and pump size, that would be unusual, but if its the same horsepower, but a different pump model, that would be the simplest answer. It's a little over 3 years old and the cell checked out fine. When it shuts off, you could also test power, to be sure power is still reaching the motor, with a multimeter tester. If the motor was submerged, it may not recover. Just a thought Do you have it set at super chlorinate ? It did not do this until we pressure washer the deck and some wood chips got into the pool. If you are getting correct voltage into the rear of the motor (120V or 240V, +/- 10%), but still the motor makes no noise at all, its likely DOA the motor at least. Inspect the motor for any burns evident on the casing as many times, an overheating motor will be shorted across the windings, and will soon fail. Many years ago I had to replace my Hayward motor. Grass clippings, seeds, gravel or other small debris can clog an impeller and reduce suction. Drying off the terminal board may help, by removing the rear cover. I am thinking it must be the age of the pump. Hi, We had a pool installed last fall and we are still figuring things out. Hi, Hi Tommy, very loud pump could be that the pump overheated, because it lost prime, and this either damaged the shaft bearings or melted/warped the impeller and diffuser. Something got fried, sorry! The issue is not a pump problem, not a filter problem, but a multiport valve problem. Replace with the exact same capacitor (look at the MFD rating printed on the capacitor). Another reason for a smoking pump is an incorrectly installed shaft seal, or blown capacitor. Either way, when a DE filter clogs up quickly, it is either not enough DE powder being used, or the grids (flex tubes for Perflex) are clogged with mineral scale or oily deposits. Inspect the capacitor, at 9 oclock in the rear, for bulges, cracks or brown liquid. You will get much more visibility by. Any ideas why? Good luck! The problem lies where the power dies! Now it wont flip back on but it is still raining hard. Perflex filters can clog up with heavy oils, or not enough DE powder, or if undersized for the pool (just like any other filter), so it could be the filter yes. Also check that wires are tightly attached, at breaker, timer and pump. Make sure that the fitting that goes into the pump has no air leaks, which is the most common air leak area. Perhaps it could be flow related, if the pump is cavitating or starved for water like if you only have 3/4 or 1 pipes (?). Or you may have an Air Leak in front of the pump, on the pump lid or the pipe coming into the pump usually. Then recharge with a good dose of DE powder. Power is getting to the pump but the pump will not run?. Motors have a thermal overload switch to shut off the motor when it gets too hot. the , . The correct replacement would be the AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) GLX-PCB-RITE. Maintenance. Good luck! If the spa is draining while in spa mode, it must be sending some water back to the pool, either the valve is not closing all the way, allowing some water to return to the pool. Do you have any suggestion for similar pump? Troubleshooting Guides; Troubleshooting Guides. What do you think is the problem? Almost ordered a new pump but it really sounded good. Now what? i know there is a low spead and hit speed switch when i take off the cover but it looks ok. it seems like the contacts get stuck together preventing the pump to turn on? It just started leaking at the top plumbing connection. Holes in grids, or stitching coming apart The most common places for an air leak on a pump include around the pump lid (must be really tight, with lubed o-ring), or a loose incoming water pipe bringing water (and air) into the pump. If you have an electric motor repair shop in town, they may have it in stock, or order it online. "thumbnailUrl": "https://x1.adis.ws/v1/media/graphics/i/lesl/its-logo-wide",
Only get big time cavitation and the basket empties about half. 7. inspect breaker, turn off breaker to pool from house main panel). It is still running the same way, surging. First inspect wiring, to be sure everything is tight and secure, and there are no loose wires, or anything that looks wrong back there. Last year the cap that you would remove to clean the filter was becoming more and more difficult to remove and get back on and now I cannot get it back on at all. Is that a result of all the water that got in the equipment during the storm? Is there a break in period for the unit or do I need to call the technician? It is usually set to run at high rpm early morning and that is before sun hits it. Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. What would have caused this? Was running fine. Poseer una casa es la piedra angular de la riqueza tanto la riqueza financiera como la seguridad emocional. So I need any kind of advice or help you can give me, before I have to call someone out. Then sometimes with no rhyme or reason the pump shuts down and will not come back on until after I turn off and on all breakers. If this is an ABG pool, check the skimmer hose and adapter fittings. "caption": "In The Swim Blog"
Follow disassembly/assembly procedures (pages 32 -37). I shut the pump down the other night and it will not run. Not the 12VAC that it says should be there. I would test the voltage at the motor terminal board, very quickly, before the breaker trips, to be sure its between 210V-250V coming in. Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? Typically, any dilemmas with your Hayward pool pump are likely related to either electrical or plumbing situations. Pump lids are all very tight, they need to be. I have a max-flo XL pump how high should it read it keeps going over 20 psi is this normal. Hi Curt, not especially uncommon, small stress cracks on the outlet port of the pump, about 1/4 long? Hi, thats strange! The pump starts up fine and draws water but then it starts clicking as if its shutting off and on. It likely also got hot and the threads shrunk, now drawing in too much air for the pump to catch prime. . Should I shut down my system until I can get this fixed or is it safe for the motor to continue operation? Hi Marsha, Ive had this question a lot this year. I have removed and tested the capacitor it appears OK I then removed the thermostat to try to access the shaft and turn it with a 7/17 wrench, but the protrusions on the casting and other spring mounted stuff appear to make it impossible to get a grip on the shaft. I doubt you damaged anything, or have any big issues, should be OK. The pump/motor, is a power flow LX, 1.5 HP, model SP151521BC, & the Sand Filter is the pro series model S210T. If it is a union valve, cream also on the union nut. Sounds like a leak from the shaft seal, although it could be dripping from the pipe carrying water out of the pump, running down and dripping off the bottom. Automatic reset is 60 minutes. I removed the back of the pump and the yellow wire has a small black burn hole in it. Could this be an issue with my pump? Sometimes you can pull out the clog with needle nose pliers. It only blows air but when I take the lid off water comes out and the basket over flows. "
My pump seems to be working fine but Im having an issue with the flow pulsating out of the filter. Packing Pool Putty or Silicone around the fitting is a good fix, replacing the fitting is a better fix. Ours is doing the same thing. When I turn on the pump, it sucks water through but only 2/3 of basket is filled as if a suction leak. Air can also enter the system from low water level or a stuck skimmer weir, bringing air in from the skimmer, or from loose and leaky suction side (skimmer/main drain) valves. The breaker is still left on the on position any idea what it might be? Hi, I changed my Sta Rite motor, it was 10 years old and did not start anylonger, with a brand new one. What seems to be the problem. Inspect the pipe/union connections on the suction side for loose connections or damaged pipes. I have a pre-2008 Northstar pump and it seems to be losing air seal. Any suggestions? IF the switch works, but the motor does not come on, then I would first look at the Visual Motor Check on Intermatic clocks. Troubleshooting a Salt Chlorinator First, check power. Pumps can also leak water from the shaft seal, which can appear to be a housing/seal plate leak, but will leak only directly from the bottom. Thanks. Hi, my name is Javier You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area. Home / Pool Equipment / Pool Heaters & Heat Pumps / Hayward Pool Heater Troubleshooting Hayward Pool Heater Troubleshooting September 24, 2019 March 3, 2023 Mark Garcia I would try a couple of turns of Teflon tape on the threads to create a better seal. By looking at the return valve, you should be able to see if it is squarely closing off the pool return pipes. Will it do it any harm if we leave it running? Since you didnt say it trips a breaker, its probably not a short or ground-out of power, although it still could be, typically a wire touching metal other than the terminals on both end of the wire. Hi Jim, sounds like an air leak, or low water in the pool, or a stuck skimmer weir blocking water flow into the skimmer. Joe, must be a bad motor yeah, to pull 58 amps, never heard of such a thing! Whenever Ive seen that its from too much voltage, like connecting 220V to a motor wired for 110V. A wire connected to the terminal board may be loose or burnt. Thoughts? Hi Tony, when all is good in the world, the pump basket will fill up full, and when a system is really air tight, you see no bubbles at all (through a clear pump lid), just solid water, filling the entire pump basket housing.
Only get big time cavitation and the basket empties about half. 7. inspect breaker, turn off breaker to pool from house main panel). It is still running the same way, surging. First inspect wiring, to be sure everything is tight and secure, and there are no loose wires, or anything that looks wrong back there. Last year the cap that you would remove to clean the filter was becoming more and more difficult to remove and get back on and now I cannot get it back on at all. Is that a result of all the water that got in the equipment during the storm? Is there a break in period for the unit or do I need to call the technician? It is usually set to run at high rpm early morning and that is before sun hits it. Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. What would have caused this? Was running fine. Poseer una casa es la piedra angular de la riqueza tanto la riqueza financiera como la seguridad emocional. So I need any kind of advice or help you can give me, before I have to call someone out. Then sometimes with no rhyme or reason the pump shuts down and will not come back on until after I turn off and on all breakers. If this is an ABG pool, check the skimmer hose and adapter fittings. "caption": "In The Swim Blog"
Follow disassembly/assembly procedures (pages 32 -37). I shut the pump down the other night and it will not run. Not the 12VAC that it says should be there. I would test the voltage at the motor terminal board, very quickly, before the breaker trips, to be sure its between 210V-250V coming in. Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? Typically, any dilemmas with your Hayward pool pump are likely related to either electrical or plumbing situations. Pump lids are all very tight, they need to be. I have a max-flo XL pump how high should it read it keeps going over 20 psi is this normal. Hi Curt, not especially uncommon, small stress cracks on the outlet port of the pump, about 1/4 long? Hi, thats strange! The pump starts up fine and draws water but then it starts clicking as if its shutting off and on. It likely also got hot and the threads shrunk, now drawing in too much air for the pump to catch prime. . Should I shut down my system until I can get this fixed or is it safe for the motor to continue operation? Hi Marsha, Ive had this question a lot this year. I have removed and tested the capacitor it appears OK I then removed the thermostat to try to access the shaft and turn it with a 7/17 wrench, but the protrusions on the casting and other spring mounted stuff appear to make it impossible to get a grip on the shaft. I doubt you damaged anything, or have any big issues, should be OK. The pump/motor, is a power flow LX, 1.5 HP, model SP151521BC, & the Sand Filter is the pro series model S210T. If it is a union valve, cream also on the union nut. Sounds like a leak from the shaft seal, although it could be dripping from the pipe carrying water out of the pump, running down and dripping off the bottom. Automatic reset is 60 minutes. I removed the back of the pump and the yellow wire has a small black burn hole in it. Could this be an issue with my pump? Sometimes you can pull out the clog with needle nose pliers. It only blows air but when I take the lid off water comes out and the basket over flows. "
My pump seems to be working fine but Im having an issue with the flow pulsating out of the filter. Packing Pool Putty or Silicone around the fitting is a good fix, replacing the fitting is a better fix. Ours is doing the same thing. When I turn on the pump, it sucks water through but only 2/3 of basket is filled as if a suction leak. Air can also enter the system from low water level or a stuck skimmer weir, bringing air in from the skimmer, or from loose and leaky suction side (skimmer/main drain) valves. The breaker is still left on the on position any idea what it might be? Hi, I changed my Sta Rite motor, it was 10 years old and did not start anylonger, with a brand new one. What seems to be the problem. Inspect the pipe/union connections on the suction side for loose connections or damaged pipes. I have a pre-2008 Northstar pump and it seems to be losing air seal. Any suggestions? IF the switch works, but the motor does not come on, then I would first look at the Visual Motor Check on Intermatic clocks. Troubleshooting a Salt Chlorinator First, check power. Pumps can also leak water from the shaft seal, which can appear to be a housing/seal plate leak, but will leak only directly from the bottom. Thanks. Hi, my name is Javier You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area. Home / Pool Equipment / Pool Heaters & Heat Pumps / Hayward Pool Heater Troubleshooting Hayward Pool Heater Troubleshooting September 24, 2019 March 3, 2023 Mark Garcia I would try a couple of turns of Teflon tape on the threads to create a better seal. By looking at the return valve, you should be able to see if it is squarely closing off the pool return pipes. Will it do it any harm if we leave it running? Since you didnt say it trips a breaker, its probably not a short or ground-out of power, although it still could be, typically a wire touching metal other than the terminals on both end of the wire. Hi Jim, sounds like an air leak, or low water in the pool, or a stuck skimmer weir blocking water flow into the skimmer. Joe, must be a bad motor yeah, to pull 58 amps, never heard of such a thing! Whenever Ive seen that its from too much voltage, like connecting 220V to a motor wired for 110V. A wire connected to the terminal board may be loose or burnt. Thoughts? Hi Tony, when all is good in the world, the pump basket will fill up full, and when a system is really air tight, you see no bubbles at all (through a clear pump lid), just solid water, filling the entire pump basket housing.